Our opponent grabs our shirt/jacket with their left hand.  By itself, this is not much of a threat but is typically a "distance gauging" and positional guarantee for their right punch or perhaps knee strike.  Thus our goal is not simply to clear their hand from the grab but more significantly reduce their options of succeeding with an actual strike.  This technique works well preemptively (as they reaching to grab us) or reactively (after the grab has been accomplished).  It does not work well after they have already succeeding in punching us in the face while holding us! 

Controlling Animal Strategy: Their grab (snake strategy) is cleared through our crane (wing folding and re-extending is our clear and then immediate strike.  Our target choice (hand sword to throat) has a viper snake influence as well.  Because you can counter an animal strategy with either the controlling animal or its own animal (crane beats snake but also viper snake can counter constrictor snake) it is quite common to see an influence from both the controlling animal and the same animal within a single technique.  

Lesson 1: Affectng all three zones of movement: Height, width, and depth.  We clear their grab with our right arm moving in an inside downward diagonal path as if drawing a line from their left ear to our back leg (left toe).  By moving diagonally we transverse height, width, and depth zones.  The downward aspect affects height (causing them to bend over slightly which places weight over their feet reducing immediate access to kicking.)  The inward component of our clear affects their width which turns their body and limited their ability to launch with power a right punch. Because the clearing path travels towards us it draws their body in to us which affects their depth by accelerating their next target (throat) towards us and limits their ability to retreat out of range.

Lesson 2: Frictional pull.  There are three ways of increasing the amount of pulling on our opponent that our clearing hand causes (frictional pull).  First, making the initial contact on the higher part of our forearm (closer to our elbow) on the higher part of their forearm allows a longer duration of contact while traveling the inside downward diagonal path.  If we contact them at the right place on their arm but with the bottom of our forearm then we lack leverage at the beginning of the action because we are jammed up (operating within the a rim of your natural leverage is preferred).  If we contact them at the bottom of their forearm we at best will clear them but certainly will not draw them in much.  Having the correct leverage and a longer duration of contact is what we are seeking.  Second, we want our forearm to rotate (clockwise) from a palm partially facing down position to a palm up position by the completion of the clear.  This rotation will increase the contact (friction) and provide rotational directional vectors to reel our opponent into us (and down).  The third component is a principle of its own right, marriage of gravity, which is power generated and transferred into our movement by properly timing the benefit of dropping our center of gravity. The added "weight" to our arm through this principle also adds to the frictional pull.   

Lesson 3: Rebounding.  After clearing their arm we conserve our momentum by rebounding (bouncing off our abs) to reverse direction quickly as we deliver the right outward handsword to their throat.  This rebounding makes the movement faster (no stopping, restarting), more powerful (we arrive at the target with greater actual velocity and force = mass x velocity squared), and energetically more efficient (we used left muscular effort because we did not have to contract muscles to stop the arm and then reengage those muscles to reaccelerate the arm.)

Lesson 4: Borrowed Force.  If our clear is done properly so that their body is falling towards us; and if our handsword  is applied correctly so that by rebounding it arrives soon enough to the throat to take advantage of their motion that is still coming towards us; then we benefit from borrowed force which simply means that the impact is greater because of kinetic energy of their target that is running into our weapon.  Like two cars at 30 mph each having a head on collision that is now the equivalent of a 60 mph crash we allow our handsword and their throat to have a heads on collision.  

NOTE:  The above is a good example of "the whole being greater than the sum of the parts."  The magic in quality martial arts is often when several seemingly small details are done correctly which collectively work together to bring out a dramatic result.  All too often (in all martial arts) a method is discounted because somebody is missing or is misapplying a key small ingredient that links and binds all the preceding principles and thus negates much of the end result.  They then dismiss the movement.  Although any technique of any style can always be "improved upon", you can probably assume that if simply does not seem to work at all for you it is because there is a big piece of the puzzle you are missing.

METHODS OF DRILL:

1.  This technique should be practiced preemptively and reactively and like all techniques on both the right side and the left side.

2. Diversify the attacks while still applying this same sequence.  A two hand lapel grab, a straight punch, an outward back knuckle, a two hand or single hand push are just some of the attacks that this technique (especially in the preemptive clearing method) work well against with no modification.

3.  Isolating the force variables.  Practice just the clearing aspect each time adding a different component to the frictional pull equation.  First, just clear with no step back or body weight drop and no rotation. Add in just step and feel the difference.  Take away the step and add in just the rotation of the hand and feel the difference. Put the rotation and step together and feel the accumulative benefit.

4.  Play with the idea of frictional pull on all  your blocks and see how it can be used to alter your opponent's body position.  For example, a R. inward block against a R. roundhouse punch with a little counterclockwise torque at the end of the block will pull their width component a little more so that their left hand becomes momentarily isolated.

5. Grafting:  This entire technique is only two moves (and about 1000 words to describe it!) and thus is easily joined with other techniques.  Use other techniques for follow up after the handsword to the throat; use clearing kimono as a follow up to other techniques you know.  Anytime they have a hand up that would be good to check or clear, clearing kimono a quick and easy way to integrate that feature.


6. Experiment with the good, bad, and ugly of frictional pull and affecting your zones of your opponent.  For example, clear your opponent's left lapel grab with your left hand doing an inside downward diagonal clear and you will notice that you turned his width towards you thus accelerating his free right punch into your face!  So know the implication of sending an object into motion that you do not become the receiving end of an "accidental move" that you cause. A classic example would be clearing somebody down and then getting head butted in the nose.  Congratulations, they are not holding your lapel but now you have a broken nose and are knocked out cold.

7. Practice hitting bags (focus mits and twin kicking targets ideal) with that R. outward handsword.  Ideally the handsword should also be conditioned over time by striking a canvas bag with beans inside.  Each strike in a technique is only as viable as you have prepared and trained it to be.



WHAT IS IN A NAME?
"Kimono" is the Japanese term for a jacket.  Thus clearing kimono is to clear the hand off of your jacket.  Additionally, clearing implies the universal sweeping of the height, width, and depth zones which is a crucial lesson introduced in this technique.

This technique can be used as the front headlock is set or as your opponent is in the process of applying the hold.  The attacking animal strategy is snake (all grabs/holds/chokes are) and we are using the viper aspect of snake (fangs) in the form of a ridgehand to neutralize this attack.

Lesson 1:  Weapon proximity.  Our ridgehand is close to their groin so that makes it an excellent "first responder" to deal with the threat.  The closer a weapon already happens to be to a target then the faster it arrives and the less likely it is to be blocked or avoided.  "Good now"  wins over "better later."

Lesson 2. Sometimes instead of addressing a hold directly at first, we are better off simply to cause pain.  At a minimum, it will help distract their focus from applying the hold (and our counter measures to escape the hold) and it is possible that the blow will be disabling enough to where no other action is required.  

Lesson 3.  The left pinning check to their R. knee at the beginning of the technique is an important initial check and also helps prepare the leg for being locked later (our transfer of weight into our left pushdown block on the knee encourages the leg to lock which checks both the their leg we are contacting from striking us both with the that weight on the knee it also helps cancel out the other leg from kicking or kneeing because they would fall down if they attempted.)  Often a slight adjustment back with our left foot will set the distance more naturally for our right foot to advance forward into our close kneel.

Lesson 4.  The follow up after the ridgehand teaches a take down through applying a lock against their right knee.  This uses the concept of opposing forces which is used wether you are locking a knee joint, an elbow, etc.  We put pressure against the joint to lock it while stabilizing or counter pressing against the end of the lever that the joint is attached to.  In this case, our left hand cupping behind their heel while our right forearm puts pressure right above the knee to lock it.  

PLEASE NOTE:  They do not fall down because we lift their foot off the mat but rather they put themselves down in an attempt to avoid the pain in their knee from the lock.  The pain motivates the movement.  It takes far less effort to lock a knee then to lift up somebody with one hand while kneeling on the ground!  As they fall to avoid the pain, our left hand which was bracing and perhaps pulling behind their heel does lift their leg up -- exposing the groin for a stomp and just as importantly checking the leg against launching an attack as they fall.

Methods of Drill.

1. Although the left pushdown block as a check on their right knee happens immediately, new students often are slow to coordinate this action while also trying to execute the ridgehand.  I highly recommend drilling the opening attack (right ridgehand to the groin) until that portion is second nature before adding the additional check.  Likewise, make sure these two moves together are natural and can be applied with confidence before adding the leg locking takedown and stomp.  THE INITIAL MOVEMENT IN ANY TECHNIQUE IS THE MOST CRITICAL! 

2. The knee lock is an equally valid movement for stand up fighting. Drill blocking and trapping an opponent's mid level or high kick and then applying the knee lock.  Work on both right and left sides.

3. Take the concept of weapon proximity and drill with your partners  a variety of attacks while we sample different points of origins (starting positions) trying to pick logical stikes that allow you to hit a close target with a weapon that is conveniently available nearby.

4.  Learn how to properly apply a front headlock so that your body weight  is leveraging the hold and that the pressure is applied (controlled) to the wind pipe and the one side of the carotid artery. My left hand should help winch the hold in and not simply be hanging out.  The better you understand the attack the better you can train to neutralize it.  

5. Use a focus mitt or twin kicking target (those tear shaped bags) to train the ridgehand strike to the groin.  Make sure you keep a bend in your right arm when hitting.

What's in a name?  Our ridgehand (ridge meaning the backside of a sword) is used to slice our opponent's groin (testicles with a little imagination could be compared to peaches...)

We have been placed completely in a full nelson and folded forward like a pretzel.  If he arches us backwards instead then time for "Plan B" because this technique would be exactly the wrong response.

Lesson 1:  Don't let a guy fold you forward like a pretzel.  Once you are familiar with what a full nelson feels like in its approach, far better to react by pulling your elbows in close to your body and he will not be able to set the hold.  Meanwhile a few head butts and heel clips to the groin should offer deterrence.

If you do get folded forward, you are screwed so this technique teaches that if you are going down don't fight it but at least go to the ground on your terms as much as possible.  We accentuate the circle of the fold and with our right arm pinning (I hug that my right arm tight to my own body trapping his right arm) we roll and become the inside of the circle while our opponent becomes our crash pad.  Everything after that is just to mop things up and go home safely.

Thus the principle of nonresistance is applied, demonstrated, and drilled in this technique.  To go with their momentum, to not fight against their energy but to add to their directional momentum and thus take ownership over their energy by adding to it!  It would be like somebody gave you a check for $250 that would not clear because their account was $5 short.  Deposit $6 in their account and now that $250 is yours.  Better to have walked away with $244 than a just a bad check.

Controlling Animal Theory:  The full nelson is a snake attack (all grabs are)  the defense is a crane action (folding our arm into the crane wing for the initial counter throw and the elbow, hammerfist, elbow action once on the ground is more of our wing folding, unfurling, and refolding.

Methods of Drill:  
1. Definitely practice different ways to stop your opponent before having to resort to being folded and flipping down to the ground with him.  
2. Practice a stand up version where you use a spin instead of a flip to redirect their folding energy and thus drive them into a wall, a nearby opponent, the bank atm machine, etc.
3. Lay a bag (kicking shield, heavy bag, few extra layers of mats) on the ground and practice generating striking power and follow through from this prone position.  Leveraging is a little different when horizontal and not vertical!
4. Take the principle of non-resistance and freestyle drill being pushed, pulled, etc. and how you can move their energy and by adding to their momentum and vary the directional vectors of their force slightly you can take control over their position.
5. The "elbow, hammerfist, obscure elbow" combo can be applied in a variety of different contexts in both stand up and ground points of reference.  Drill a variety of attacks and see when you might be able to make practical use of this combination.

Safety note:  If the attacker (dummy) is considerably smaller than the one applying the technique than the attacker (dummy) will get crushed!  Don't do it.  Besides, how often do little guys try to put huge guys in a full nelson? 

What's in a name?  Their arms are folded in our arms which are like wings that are entangled.  Just like two birds whose wings get all tangled up we too end up spiraling down to the ground (but with them on the bottom as our crash pad.)

Before going into the details of each technique I want to ask a fundamental question:  Why even used prearranged sequences, "self-defense techniques", as a curriculum approach to teaching Five Animal Kenpo? (...or any other Kenpo or Martial Arts system for that matter.)  

Techniques are convenient methods of encapsulating a variety of theories and strategies into a case study example.  It makes it easier to maintain a consistency of approach in communicating the principles of the fighting system.  However, by no means are you going to learn everything about Five Animal Kenpo from its sequence of moves (techniques, sets, katas, etc.) but they certainly become a significant and convenient starting point to frame the discussion.  Techniques are not meant to be a one step solution to your self-defense needs, but rather think of it as an old, experienced friend sharing his life's war stories with you so you can learn from his experience.  I could have created more, I could have created fewer, I could have created better, I could have created worse.  Regardless of what I created, the real question is whether they introduce ideas that allow you to grow and experiment; or rather, do you focus so much on the one sequence that it takes ona significance greater than it should.  The guy who dwells on exactly how it should always be done regardless is missing the point just as much as the guy who dwells on how he can improve it or fix it with this move or that move.  

So as we move into this blog, remember we are listening to each techniques war stories.  You may think the old guy telling the story has a funny looking nose, smells a little funny, or seems to laugh at his own jokes, but nonetheless the question is whether you decide to listen to his story and then apply what you can to learn from his experience.

My initial goal in this blog is to address the theory of each of the empty hand self-defense techniques in the Five Animal Kenpo System.  This will not happen overnight (but hopefully within a year's span!) and as with most of my blogging attempts I suspect that this will occur is spurts.  The student on the mat that day gets priority over my blog objectives.  The reality is that I spend far more time training and teaching then writing or filming (just ask Richard Fox... who I am well aware is still waiting for Nunchaku Form and Knife Form DVDs).  

I am going to lay some ground rules for myself.  I am going treat these more as journal entries than works of literary art.  I want the theory out there instead of just bouncing around in my head and if I over edit demand too much exactness in this process than I will throw in the towel and about three techniques will get described.  So here we go.  I welcome comments but will display only the ones I feel offer additional insight or raise questions I want to further explore.  So "you suck" or "wow, you are cool" is never going to be displayed so don't bother with either.